The Journal · The Steel
What is 440C Steel? Why It Matters for Your Scissors
440C, VG10, cobalt alloy — what the letters on your blade actually mean, what Rockwell hardness tells you, and exactly which steel sits in every Quartered Steels series.
Every shear looks sharp in the box. The steel decides what happens next: how fine an edge it will take, how long it keeps it, and how it copes with water, product and thousands of closes a week. It’s the part of a shear you can’t see — so it’s the part you should always ask about.
The short answer
440C is a hard, high-carbon stainless steel and a proper professional baseline — it’s what our Foundation Series is made from, at 58 HRC. Our Master Series steps up to VG10 at 59 HRC for a longer-lasting edge. Our flagship X Series is made from AG-16 Cobalt Alloy. If a shear doesn’t tell you its steel, assume it’s nothing to boast about.
What is 440C?
440C is a high-carbon, martensitic stainless steel. In plain English: there’s enough carbon for it to be hardened to a fine, durable edge, and enough chromium to resist the rust and moisture of a working salon. It’s trusted wherever a keen, dependable edge matters.
- Hardness — it can be heat-treated to a high hardness, so a fine edge holds up to daily work.
- Corrosion resistance — it copes with water, product and cleaning far better than basic steels.
- Sharpenability — it takes a fine edge and responds well to professional servicing.
What does HRC mean?
HRC is hardness on the Rockwell C scale. The higher the number, the harder the steel — and the longer a fine edge holds before it needs servicing. Harder isn’t automatically better, though: very hard steel needs a skilled sharpener, and the blade design, heat treatment and finishing matter just as much as the number.
440C vs. VG10 vs. cobalt alloy
| 440C stainless | VG10 | AG-16 Cobalt Alloy | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Our series | Foundation | Master | X Series |
| Hardness | 58 HRC | 59 HRC | — |
| Character | Tough, dependable, easy to maintain | Refined, holds a fine edge longer | Our flagship alloy, chosen for edge-holding on technique-specific designs |
| Examples | Foundation, Foundation Thinner | Master Craft, Master Precision, Matt Gold, 303 Thinner | Hillary, Polo, Dias, Vasco, Vespucci and more |
VG10
VG10 is a premium stainless cutlery steel alloyed with elements including vanadium, molybdenum and cobalt. The result is a finer grain and better edge retention, so it stays sharp for longer between services. It’s the steel in every shear in our Master Series.
AG-16 Cobalt Alloy
Cobalt-bearing alloys are prized for holding a keen edge through heavy use. AG-16 Cobalt Alloy is the steel we chose for our entire X Series — the range where every model is shaped around a specific technique, from the slicing edge of the Vasco to the soft-blending teeth of the Vespucci.
What about cheaper steels?
Many budget shears use softer stainless grades, or simply don’t say. Softer steel can feel sharp at first but dulls faster, folds hair sooner and needs servicing more often — which is how a cheap shear ends up costing more. More on that in Why Professional Scissors Are Worth the Investment.
We name the steel on every shear we make. We’d suggest you never buy one that doesn’t.
How to choose
- Training, or want a dependable second pair? 440C. The Foundation Duo is professional steel at an honest price.
- Cutting full-time and want the edge to last? VG10 in the Master Series.
- Want a shear built around your technique? The X Series in AG-16 Cobalt Alloy.
Questions we get asked
Is 440C good enough for a professional?
Yes. It’s a genuine professional steel, and at 58 HRC our Foundation shears hold a fine edge through daily salon work.
Does harder steel mean I never need sharpening?
No. Every edge wears. Harder steel simply lasts longer between services — we recommend one at least every six months.
Will stainless steel rust?
Stainless resists corrosion, it isn’t immune to it. Wipe, dry and oil your shears, and never leave them soaking.
Dan Wild · Founder, Quartered Steels · Belfast
